FOOD PIG OUT TV chef and author Harry Eastwood shares a real crowd-pleaser from her latest cookbook, which celebrates meat in all its glory If you don’t have one of her cookbooks, you might remember British chef Harry Eastwood from her stint presenting primetime Channel 4 series Cook Yourself Thin. Unexpectedly for a former vegetarian, her latest cookbook, Carneval, is a celebration of meat. It explains how to get the best out of the whole animal and focuses on easy and reliable recipes. Brought up in France, “where being passionate about food was considered legitimate, even noble”, Harry’s food philosophy is simple: “Hunger is an opportunity for something magical to happen; for pleasure and joy. I don’t like to waste it on a soggy petrol station sandwich. I cook and eat simple food (no cheffy squiggles or emulsions), with a strong emphasis on quality ingredients.” Here, she shares one of her favourite recipes: “The crackling is so crispy and the meat is silky and surrendered underneath. And it’s super easy, too. You put it in the oven and pretty much forget about it.” What’s not to love? Carneval: A celebration of meat, in recipes Penguin Books, £25 Garlic and Fennel Crispy Pork Belly Serves 6, or 4 with leftovers Ingredients • 1.6kg pork belly, with skin on (I prefer a slightly fattier belly but this works just as well with lean) • salt flakes For the rub • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced • 1 tsp light muscovado sugar • ½ tsp salt • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, smashed in a mortar and pestle • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, smashed in a mortar and pestle • 1 tbsp sunflower oil • a small pinch cayenne pepper or red chilli flakes (smashed in a mortar and pestle) Instructions 1. Mix the rub ingredients together to form a paste. Slather this all over the meat, avoiding the skin side, which you should just score and sprinkle with salt – please go for flakes, if you can, as this will draw out the moisture without over-salting the skin. The easiest tool to score a belly of pork is a Stanley knife and I like my score lines to be close together to give the best possible crackling. 2. Line an ovenproof dish roughly the same size as the belly with baking paper and lay the marinated meat (skin side up) on top. Place in the fridge uncovered (this is very important) overnight. 3. The next day, take the meat out of the fridge, wipe away the moisture from the skin with kitchen paper and sprinkle again with salt. This is to extract as much moisture from the skin as possible. Leave at room temperature for 2 hours before cooking (so 6 hours before serving). 4. Preheat the oven to 170°C/fan 150°C/gas mark 3–4 – this works best with a fan setting. 5. Wipe the surface of the skin again and repeat the sprinkling of the salt flakes. Scrape the marinade ingredients away from the flesh and put the meat back into the dish skin side up. Cook for 2 hours, then turn the temperature of the oven down to 150°C/fan 130°C/gas mark 2 – now it is best without the fan. Cook for another 1½ hours. 6. Once the meat has had a total of 3½ hours cooking, set the oven to grill mode. Prop up the meat with a scrunched-up piece of tin foil, if necessary, so that the crackling surface is more or less level and place the dish at the bottom of the oven to prevent burning. You want to keep an eye on it at this stage as the crackling will puff up like popcorn and can catch. Once the whole of the top is bubbly and crackled up, remove from the oven and rest in the oven dish for 10 minutes. 7. Cut the meat into medium slices and serve with celeriac mash, crispy seaweed (find recipe in Carneval) and a little heated up hoisin sauce or Dijon mustard. 36 schoolnotices.co.uk ★ W I N T ER 17
COOK’S TIP If you have any meat left over, you can warm it up and use it to make the most gorgeous Asian twist on a bacon buttie. Warm a plain white roll and slather some hoisin on one side and a tiny bit of Sriracha (chilli sauce) on the other. Put the warm pork in the bun and top with thinly sliced spring onions and cucumber. It is frankly amazing!